Skip to main content

5 Things You Probably Didn't Know About the History of Dessert



palm beach personal chef

Print Friendly and PDF
Dessert as we know it today has likely only existed since the seventeenth century, according to food historian Deborah Krohn and Yotam Ottolenghi.
On a balmy summer evening at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, chef and writer Yotam Ottolenghi walked onto a stage dressed like a nobleman of the ancien régime, one who might have been angling to speak with Louis the XIV at Versailles. Instead, Ottolenghi was dressed to speak with food historian Deborah Krohn about Versailles, and the elaborate cakes, pastries, and sugar sculptures that enlivened the palace with the spirit of excess and indulgence that ultimately consumed it.
The event, Feast of Versailles, offered a glimpse into the Met's Visitors of Versailles exhibit, as well as tastes of 17th-century-inspired desserts fashioned by some of the world's best pastry chefs, including Dominique Ansel, Dinara Kasko, Ghaya F. Oliveira, and Janice Wong.
"Versailles brings out all those images we have about decadence, about pushing the boundaries in every possible art form—architecture, design, landscape. And also in food," Ottolenghi said. "Late-seventeenth-century Versailles was kind of the equivalent of Disneyland. You came there to see, to be delighted and impressed. It was also slightly over the top, excessive, and decadent. Sometimes I think about it like Jurassic Park, where there’s dinosaurs walking around and they don’t know the end is coming."
Before the grand feast began, Ottolenghi and Krohn discussed the surprising history of dessert through the lens of Versailles, offering these five facts about pastry that you may not have known before:
"If you look at a sixteenth-century cookbook, pastry was more something that had a practical function—as a crust, or sometimes even to enclose other food to create a kind of Tupperware situation," said Krohn. "It was used as a preservative. It probably tasted okay, but it wasn’t something you would want to eat on its own."

2. In fact, dessert wasn't really a thing until the seventeenth century. 

According to Krohn, the first cookbook for desserts didn't surface until the seventeenth century, when the idea of having a separate course for sweets first came into existence. 
"Up until the seventeenth century, sweet and savory dishes were put out on tables indistinguishable from each other," she said.
This transition towards making and appreciating sweet desserts was partly due to the cultivation of New World plantations, which lowered the price of sugar, allowing it to become a main ingredient, not just a spice that brought out the savoriness of a dish or preserved it. 

3. Desserts were served in the middle of the meal. 

"Over time there was a development of a course called 'entremet' [served] in between courses, and that survives a little bit at very fancy restaurants where you get a sorbet course—that’s the last vestige of the entremet," she said. "But then the dessert started being served at the end of the meal, and by the middle of the seventeenth century, there are cookbooks only for desserts—sweet courses at the end of the meal."

4. At Versailles, out-of-season fruit was all the rage.

As Ottolenghi pointed out, Louis the XIV prided himself in growing fruits in the middle of the winter, in a climate where they were not normally grown, to demonstrate his mastery over nature.
"The most important element for the sweet course is fruit, and that’s a constant from the late Middle Ages on," she said. "Fruit becomes more and more sculptural; it begins to be served in pyramids. It becomes a prize to display all of the fruits you can grow. Louis the XIV grew all kinds of amazing fruits out of season: strawberries in March, pineapples that had not been cultivated in Europe before. He really mastered the art of growing things under glass bells—the beginning of green-house technology."

5. Sugar was understood as a medium for sculpting art, similar to porcelain and bronze, more than it was as an ingredient for making sweets.

Even Bernini used sugar to sculpt. 
"It was almost like porcelain," Krohn said. "It was obviously much easier than porcelain, because you don’t need to fire it. You can take sugar and mix it with a kind of gum, and sculpt it, and it hardens and becomes almost indistinguishable from porcelain. Starting in the seventeenth century, artists like Bernini would sometimes desig—for a fabulous banquet—a sculpture of sugar from the same method that he would make marble or bronze sculptures."
"Blending the line between cooking and art—sugar was the medium with which you could do that," Ottolenghi added. And the treats at Versaille begged the question: "Should I eat that or not?" 

private chefs and event catering

Palm Beach + Boca Raton + Fort Lauderdale + Miami Beach
info@yadachef.com | 954-367-YADA (9232)
561-285-7466

south florida catering and personal chefs

Popular posts from this blog

Kids Cooking Class - Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale, Miami

YaDa Chef's cooking school JUST for kids! Teaching children of all ages that cooking can be creative, full of discovery, and a lot of fun!  YaDa Chef provides hands-on cooking classes allowing kid's imaginations to run wild and free while discovering new science, math, reading, health and social skills. YaDa Chef offers a unique culinary experience offering cooking classes to children in an environment that encourages discover and creativity.  Each class is a new experience.  Themes chosen, either our one of YaDa Chef's chefs, by the child or parent assist in sharpening skills and taking the mystery out of the kitchen.  Removing the fear of the unknown while incorporating subject matter which ties into each theme. Our highly qualified chefs, in coordination of nutritional experts carry out a mission to provide an interactive learning experience giving children the opportunity to develop a life-long love of the culinary arts. Each class is designed to fa...

Do you Remember Herman? Sourdough Starter and Recipe

In the late 1970s and early 1980s, Amish friendship bread, as well as an interchangeable starter referred to as Herman (the name varies), became a popular exchange among friends who shared the starter as well as recipes. Herman Starter Preparation time: 10 minutes Standing time: 5 days Yield: 4 cups 1 cup sugar 1/3 cup warm water 2 packages (2 1/4 teaspoons each) active dry yeast 2 cups each: milk, flour 1. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the sugar over the warm water. Sprinkle yeast over mixture; set aside until doubled in volume, about 10 minutes. 2. Combine milk, flour, remaining sugar and yeast mixture in a plastic or glass container. (Do not use metal.) Stir with a wooden spoon; cover loosely. Set aside at room temperature, at least 8 hours. 3. Stir mixture once a day for three days. On the fourth day, measure out 1 cup of Herman for baking; measure 1 additional cup to give to a friend as a gift. To replenish starter: Add 1 cup flour, 1 cup milk and 1...

Braised Lettuce (Laitues Braises): A Take On Julia Child’s Recipe

You can use almost any lettuce, such as chicory, or frisee, or Boston Bib if you are busing large heads, cut them in half. We made these pescartarian because of the shrimp stock, but vegan is easy with vegetable stock, or if serving with beef, a  beef stock and bacon. Braised lettuce is a delicious garnish for poultry, white meats such as veal or pork, or steamed white fish. It can be the main accompanied by a warm sweet potato salad. Serves 4 4 heads Romaine lettuce hearts  4 thick slices of bacon (if making not vegetarian or vegan), cut into lardon strips 1 small onion , diced 2 carrots, diced 1 tablespoon/15g plus 1/2 tablespoon/7 butter divided  1 teaspoon/5ml olive oil 1/2 cup/125ml shrimp or seafood stock (see notes above) 1/2 cup/125ml cup white wine or dry white vermouth bouquet garni: 1 parsley branch, 1 branch of thyme,1  bay leaf tied to a cheesecloth ½ tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon parsley Trim stems of lettuce and ...

9 Wonderful Benefits Of Pistachios

The health benefits of pistachios include a  healthy heart , weight management, protection against  diabetes  and hypertension, and improved  digestion . The  vitamins ,  minerals , fats, and protein found in pistachio are all good for health. What Are Pistachios? Pistachios are one of the oldest edible  nuts  and are commonly used all over the world. They are native to Asia, particularly Iran and Iraq. Archaeological evidence  dates  the association of pistachios and man as early as 6,000 BC. They were cultivated in Iran, Iraq, and Syria and were introduced to the Romans only in 100 AD. Today, apart from Iran, Iraq, and Syria, pistachios are being produced in many countries such as the United States, Australia, Turkey, and China, among others. Pistachio nuts belong to the  Anacardiaceae  family from the genus  Pistacia . A pistachio tree takes about 10 to 12 years to produce the first crop. They are d...

Colors, Flavors, Sizes & Seasons of Onions

Onions vary in color, size, the time of year harvested, and flavor. These differences make onions very versatile. The  Color of Onions Bulb onions can be yellow, red, or white. Approximately 87 percent of the crop is devoted to yellow onion production, with about eight percent red onions, and five percent white onions. Yellow Onions Yellow Onions are full-flavored and are a reliable standby for cooking almost anything. Yellow onions turn a rich, dark brown when cooked and give French Onion Soup its tangy sweet flavor. Red Onions Red Onions, with their wonderful color, are a good choice for lots of fresh uses or for grilling, charbroiling, and roasting. White Onions White Onions are often used in prepared salads, white sauces, and is the traditional onion for classic Mexican cuisine. They have a golden color and sweet flavor when sautéed. personal chefs and event catering Miami + Miami Beach + Fort Lauderdale + Palm Beach www.yadachef.com info@yadachef.c...

New England Iced Tea Recipe

While growing up in Massachusetts, my family spent summers at our cottage. These cocktails for the adults were a regional variation on Long Island iced tea, and they always showed up at clambakes on the beach. —Ann Liebergen, Brookfield, Wisconsin Ingredients 2 tablespoons sugar 1 ounce vodka 1 ounce light rum 1 ounce gin 1 ounce Triple Sec 1 ounce lime juice 1 ounce tequila 1 to 1-1/2 cups ice cubes 2 ounces cranberry juice Lemon slice, optional Directions In a mixing glass or tumbler, combine the sugar, vodka, rum, gin, Triple Sec, lime juice and tequila; stir until sugar is dissolved. Place ice in a highball glass; pour in the sugar mixture. Top with cranberry juice. Garnish with lemon if desired.  private chefs and event catering Palm Beach + Boca Raton + Fort Lauderdale + Miami Beach info@yadachef.com | 954-367-YADA (9232) 561-285-7466 www.yadachef.com south florida catering and personal chefs

Health Benefits of Ginger

What are the therapeutic benefits of ginger? Below are examples of some scientific studies on ginger and its current or potential uses in medical treatment. Inf lammation of the colon A study carried out at the University of Michigan Medical School found that Ginger Root Supplement administered to volunteer participants reduced inflammation markers in the colon within a month. The study was published in the journal Cancer Prevention Research. Experts say that inflammation of the colon is a precursor to colon cancer. Co-researcher Suzanna M. Zick, N.D., M.P.H., explained that by reducing inflammation in the colon a person reduces their risk of developing colon cancer. Zick said "We need to apply the same rigor to the sorts of questions about the effect of ginger root that we apply to other clinical trial research. Interest in this is only going to increase as people look for ways to prevent cancer that are nontoxic, and improve their quality of life in a cost-effect...

Pitted vs Unpitted Olives — Which Are Better?

Q. Are there any differences in flavor or texture among pitted and unpitted brine-cured  olives? A. To evaluate any differences between pitted and unpitted olives, we gathered both green and black brine-cured olives from deli sections at supermarkets, as well as olives packed in plastic and glass containers. After tasting many samples, it became clear that the pitted olives suffered on two counts: they tasted saltier and their flesh was mushier. They also lacked the complex, fruity flavors of the unpitted kind. Here's why: Before being packed for sale, fresh-picked olives are soaked in brine for periods of up to a year to remove bitterness and develop flavor. Once pitted, the olives are returned to the brine for packing, which can penetrate the inside of the olive and turn it mushy and pasty, as well as increase the absorption of salt. That saltier taste can mask subtler flavors. If you have the time, it makes sense to buy unpitted olives and pit them yourself...

Strawberry Breasts (Fragomammella) Recipe

This 'Two Fat Ladies' recipe is delicious. We did find before pushing the ricotta through the sieve to drain as much as the liquid out of it first. Made for a less runny consistency.  Ingredients 1 pound/450g strawberries 1 tablespoon/15ml lemon juice 1 tablespoon/15ml caster sugar (superfine) 1 1/4/510g pounds fresh ricotta 1/4 pint (1/2 cup/120ml/120g) double cream 3 tablespoons/45ml Campari 4 to 5 tablespoons/8g icing sugar (confectioners') Directions Set aside 16 of the smallest strawberries and cut the rest into small pieces. Put in a bowl with the lemon juice and caster sugar and leave to soak for 1 hour. Push the ricotta through the smallest sieve of a mouli, add cream and Campari, mix well. Sieve the icing sugar into the mixture to your own taste, put a third of the mixture aside and mix the strawberries into the remaining ricotta. Prepare pink dessert plates and divide the mixture into 16 breast-shaped molds, 2 for each plate. With a moistened...

Chocolate Covered Peanut Cluster Recipe

  Chocolate Covered Peanut Clusters This recipe is so easy to make there really is no excuse not to make them.  They take less than 30 minutes to make.  Makes 20-30 clusters 3 ounces(1/2 cup)/85g milk chocolate chips 3ounces(1/2 cup)/85g semi-sweet/dark chocolate chips 1 tablespoon/15ml vegetable shortening 1 cup/150g salted peanuts In a medium sauce pan add the chocolate chips and shortening. Slowly melt the chocolate on medium low heat (about 5 minutes), making sure to stir and not let the chocolate burn.  Remove the pan from heat and stir in the peanuts.  Drop teaspoon clusters on a parchment lined sheet pan.  Place in the refrigerator for 20-25 minutes until firm.   private chefs and event catering Palm Beach + Boca Raton + Fort Lauderdale + Miami Beach info@yadachef.com | 954-367-YADA (9232) 561-285-7466 www.yadachef.com south florida catering and personal chefs