European Crusty Rolls and Recipe

There is an art to making those wonderful rolls and every crusty bread you find in France. There are also rules to make sure you are getting only the finest of products. We have been working to Take the Mystery Out of the Kitchen. Below you will find a recipe that will result in the most delicious, crusty on the outside and chewy on the in with a wonderful crumb.

Let us first explain a bit about the rules all French bakers (at least in Paris) must abide by.

Article 1 -- Bread called "pain maison" or an equivalent name can only be sold under those names if the bread has been entirely kneaded, worked and cooked on their place of sale to the ultimate consumer. However, this denomination can also be used when the bread is sold away from the premises to the ultimate consumer by the professional who ensured that the operations of kneading, shaping and cooking occurred at the same place.

Article 2 -- Bread called "pain de tradition française", "pain traditionnel français", "pain traditionnel de France" or some name combining these terms can only be sold if they have not been frozen at any point during their making, do not contain any additives, and are produced from a dough which has the following characteristics:

1. Made only from a mix of wheat flours suitable for making bread, safe water and cooking salt;
2. Fermented with yeast suitable for breads (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) and a starter, in the sense of article 4 of this Decree, or either yeast or a starter;
3. Relative to the weight of the (wheat) flour used will contain no more than
a) 2 percent broad bean flour;
b) .5 percent soya flour
c) .3 percent malted wheat flour

There are more, but you get the basic idea. Now, what is the crumb? No it is not the little pieces that are left on your chin or your plate.

Crumb is a term that bakers use to define the inside of the bread. By looking at the way the cell structure (holes, you want them) of the crumb is formed, and the shape and size and color of the cells, a baker can analyze the hydration, flour types, and yeast amounts as well as how the dough was mixed and shaped. By looking at the shape and crust a baker can see how the bread was baked, flour types, fermentation balance, and moulding techniques.

As hydration increases, the hole structure of the crumb gets larger and more irregular. Artisan reads generally have at least a 60% hydrations level. You will notice that with the lower hydreations it is easier to see the swirl formed from the shaping process. Artisan bakers has 70% hydration, although because of the difference of French and American flours and the way the flour absorbs the water, hydration will be 60%. The difference in the flours is another post. On to the recipe.

Makes 10-12 Crusty Rolls Recipe

1/2 cup/125ml/130g sourdough starter (we have discussed how to make starters)
1.8 teaspoon/.5ml instant yeast
1 1/2 cups/375ml warm water
1 cup/4 1/4 oz/122g bread flour
3 cups/13 oz/374.8g all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon YaDa Chef Maya Natural Salt
1/2 teaspoon/2ml instant yeast

In a large bowl combine sourdough starter, instant yeast and water. Let sit for 1-2 minutes. Add the bread flour and mix well. Add the AP flour a bit at a time mixing to combine. Turn out to a lightly floured board. It may be a little sticky. Use the French method of “smearing the dough” with the palm of your and or fraisage to incorporate the flour well for 1-2 minutes. Then gather the dough together in one hand. Lift the hand to shoulder height and slam it to your work surface. Give it a roll and a 1/4 turn. Gather it together and repeat for about 6 minutes. You may need to use a little flour if it is still sticky, but use sparingly. Form the now smooth dough into a ball. Lightly oil a bowl (we use the same one we mixed in). Cover with plastic cling film and put in the fridge for 6-8 hours. (It is great to do this just before going to bed). Remove from fridge and let come to room temperature (about 30 minutes). Turn out to a lightly floured board and sprinkle the last of the yeast evenly. Fold the dough into thirds and flatten out. Repeat 4 or 5 times to fully incorporate the new yeast. Shape back into a ball and place back into the greased bowl. Recover and let sit at room temperature for 1 1/2 hours. Deflate and recover and wait until double in size 60-90 minutes. Place on a lightly oiled surface. Cut into 12 equal pieces (1 1/2 -2 ounces/45-60g) and roll into balls. Place on a parchment lined baking tray. Cover with more lightly oiled plastic wrap or a floured tea towel and let rise in a warm place (an oven with the light turned on is perfect) for 1- 1 1/2 hours. Take out of the oven and set the oven to 425F/218C.Gas 7. Place a baking sheet upside down on a rack in the lower third of the oven while it preheats. Slash the top of the rolls when the oven comes to temperature. Brush with cool water. Throw 1/4 cup/60ml water on the wall of the oven and shut the door. Place rolls in the oven and bake for 20-25 minutes. After 15 minutes throw some more water on the oven wall. Remove the rolls from the oven after baking. The internal temperature should be about 200F/93.3C. Let cool for 15-20 minutes. Slice and eat. If you cut them right away the inside will be gooey.

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